Hi everybody,
Cycling is a wonderful thing and I have to say that it's truly my favorite part of a triathlon.
Cycling is art- cycling is moving personal limits (legal of course) and spend a great time in the nature!
Unfortunately more and more cyclists look like circus clowns on their bikes, have more equipment than a entire PRO tour team and legs like my 95year old grandma...
Thank god that there is a group of people who are taking care of the style and correct behavior of cyclists- THE VELOMINATI!
Most important is that once a triathlete sits on a roadbike you shouldn't see that it's a triathlete... It is a bit like when you travel and you come into a different country with a different culture. You will try to adapt the behaviors and rules of that country.
Triathletes please do that when you ride on a roadbike! To make it easier for you here are a few easy rules:
// Obey The Rules.
// Lead by example.
It is forbidden for someone familiar with The Rules
to knowingly assist another person to breach them.
// Guide the uninitiated.
No matter how good you think your reason is to
knowingly breach The Rules, it is never good enough.
// It’s all about the bike.
It is, absolutely, without question, unequivocally,
about the bike. Anyone who says otherwise is obviously a twatwaffle.
// Free your mind and your legs will follow.
Your mind is your worst enemy. Do all your thinking
before you start riding your bike. Once the pedals start to turn, wrap
yourself in the sensations of the ride – the smell of the air, the sound of the
tires, the feeling of flight as the bicycle rolls over the road.
// Tan lines should be cultivated and kept razor
sharp.
Under no circumstances should one be rolling up
their sleeves or shorts in an effort to somehow diminish one’s tan
lines. Sleeveless jerseys are under no circumstances to be employed.
// Saddles, bars, and tires shall be carefully
matched.
Valid options are:
o Match the saddle to the bars and
the tires to black; or
o Match the bars to the color of
the frame at the top of the head tube and the saddle to the color of the frame
at the top of the seat tube and the tires to the color where they come closest
to the frame; or
o Match the saddle and the bars to
the frame decals; or
o Black, black, black
// If you are out riding in bad weather, it means
you are a badass.
Period.
Fair-weather riding is a luxury reserved for Sunday
afternoons and wide boulevards. Those who ride in foul weather – be it cold,
wet, or inordinately hot – are members of a special club of riders who, on the
morning of a big ride, pull back the curtain to check the weather and, upon
seeing rain falling from the skies, allow a wry smile to spread across their
face. This is a rider who loves the work.
// It never gets easier, you just go faster.
As this famous quote by Greg LeMan
tells us, training, climbing, and racing is hard. It stays hard. To put it
another way, per Greg Henderson: “Training is like fighting with a gorilla. You
don’t stop when you’re tired. You stop when the gorilla is tired.” Sur
la Plaque, fucktards.
// Family does not come first. The bike does.
Sean
Kelly, being interviewed after the ’84 Amstel Gold Race, spots his wife
leaning against his Citroën AX. He interrupts the interview to tell her to
get off the paintwork, to which she shrugs, “In your life the car comes
first, then the bike, then me.” Instinctively, he snaps back, “You got the
order wrong. The bike comes first.”
// The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
While the minimum number of bikes one should own is
three,
the correct number is n+1, where n is the
number of bikes currently owned. This equation may also be re-written as s-1, where s is the number of bikes owned
that would result in separation from your partner.
// If you draw race number 13, turn it upside down.
Paradoxically, the same mind that holds such
control over the body is also woefully fragile and prone to superstitious
thought. It fills easily with doubt and is distracted by ancillary details.
This is why the tape must always be perfect, the machine silent, the kit
spotless. And, if you draw the unlucky Number 13, turn
it upside down to counter-act its negative energy.
// Shorts should be black.
Team-issue shorts should be black, with the
possible exception of side-panels, which may match the rest of the team kit.
// Black shorts should also be worn with leader’s
jerseys.
Black shorts, or at least standard team-kit shorts,
must be worn with Championship jerseys and race leadership jerseys. Don’t
over-match your kit, or accept that you will look like a douche.
// Respect the jersey.
Championship and race leader jerseys must only be
worn if you’ve won the championship or led the race.
// Team kit is for members of the team.
Wearing Pro team kit is also questionable if you’re
not paid to wear it. If you must fly the colors of Pro teams, all
garments should match perfectly, i.e no Mapei jersey with Kelme shorts and
Telekom socks.
// Know what to wear. Don’t suffer kit confusion.
No baggy shorts and jerseys while riding the road
bike. No lycra when riding the mountain bike (unless racing XC). Skin suits
only for cyclocross.
// Introduce Yourself.
If you deem it appropriate to join a group of
riders who are not part of an open group ride and who are not your
mates, it is customary and courteous to announce your presence. Introduce
yourself and ask if you may join the group. If you have been passed by a group,
wait for an invitation, introduce yourself, or let them go. The silent joiner
is viewed as ill-mannered and Anti-V. Conversely, the joiner who can’t shut
their cakehole is no better and should be dropped from the group at first
opportunity.
// There are only three remedies for pain.
These are:
o If your quads start to burn,
shift forward to use your hamstrings and calves, or
o If your calves or hamstrings
start to burn, shift back to use your quads, or
o If you feel wimpy and weak,
meditate on Rule
#5 and train more!
// Cold weather gear is for cold weather.
Knickers, vests, arm warmers, shoe covers, and caps
beneath your helmet can all make you look like a hardman, when the weather
warrants their use. If it isn’t wet or cold, save your Flandrian
Best for Flemish weather.
// Cycling caps are for cycling.
Cycling caps can be worn under helmets, but never
when not riding, no matter how hip you think you look. This will render one a
douche, and should result in public berating or beating. The only time it is
acceptable to wear a cycling cap is while directly engaged in cycling
activities and while clad in cycling kit. This includes activities taking place
prior to and immediately after the ride such as machine tuning and tire
pumping. Also included are cafe appearances for pre-ride espressi and
post-ride pub appearances for body-refueling ales (provided said pub has sunny,
outdoor patio – do not stray inside a pub wearing kit or risk being
ceremoniously beaten by leather-clad biker chicks). Under these
conditions, having your cap skull-side tipped jauntily at a rakish angle
is, one might say, de rigueur. All good things must be taken in measure,
however, and as such it is critical that we let sanity and good taste prevail:
as long as the first sip of the relevant caffeine or hop-based beverage is
taken whilst beads of sweat, snow, or rain are still evident on one’s brow then
it is legitimate for the cap to be worn. However, once all that remains in the
cranial furrows is salt, it is then time to shower, throw on some suitable
après-ride attire (a woollen Molteni Arcore training top circa ’73 comes to
mind) and return to the bar, folded copy of pastel-coloured news publication in
hand, ready for formal fluid replacement. It is also helpful if you are a Giant
of the Road, as demonstrated here,
rather than a giant douchebag.
// Tuck only after reaching Escape
Velocity.
You may only employ the aerodynamic tuck after you
have spun out your 53 x 11; the tuck is to be engaged only when your legs can
no longer keep up. Your legs make you go fast, and trying to keep your fat ass
out of the wind only serves to keep you from slowing down once you reach escape
velocity. Thus, the tuck is only to be employed to prevent you slowing down
when your legs have wrung the top end out of your block. Tucking
prematurely while descending is the antithesis of Casually
Deliberate. For more on riding fast downhill see Rule
#64 and Rule
#85.
// Speeds and distances shall be referred to and
measured in kilometers.
This includes while discussing cycling in the
workplace with your non-cycling coworkers, serving to further mystify our sport
in the web of their Neanderthalic cognitive capabilities. As the confused
expression spreads across their unibrowed faces, casually mention your shaved
legs. All of cycling’s monuments are measured in the metric system and as such
the English system is forbidden.
// The bikes on top of your car should be worth
more than the car.
Or at least be relatively more expensive.
Basically, if you’re putting your Huffy on your Rolls, you’re in trouble,
mister. Remember what Sean
said.
// Make your bike photogenic.
When photographing your bike, gussy her up properly
for the camera. Some parameters are firm: valve stems at 6 o’clock. Cranks
never at 90 or 180 degrees. Others are at your discretion, though the
accepted practices are include putting the chain on the big dog, and no bidons
in the cages.
// Shorts and socks should be like Goldilocks.
Not too
long and not too
short. (Disclaimer: despite Sean Yates’ horrible choice in shorts length,
he is a quintessential hard man of cycling and is deeply admired by the
Velominati. Whereas Armstrong’s short and sock lengths are just plain wrong.)
No socks is a no-no, as are those ankle-length ones that should only be worn by
female tennis players.
// Socks can be any damn colour you like.
White is old school cool. Black is cool too, but
were given a bad image by a Texan whose were too long. If you feel you
must go colored, make sure they damn well match your kit. Tip: DeFeet
Wool-E-Ators rule.
Saddle bags have no place on a road bike, and are
only acceptable on mountain bikes in extreme cases.
// No frame-mounted pumps.
Either Co2 cannisters or mini-pumps should be
carried in jersey pockets (See Rule
#31). The only exception to this rule is to mount a Silca brand frame pump
in the rear triangle of the frame, with the rear wheel skewer as the pump mount
nob, as demonstrated by members of the 7-Eleven and Ariostea pro cycling teams.
As such, a frame pump mounted upside-down and along the left (skewer lever side)
seat stay is both old skool and euro and thus acceptable. We restate at this
time that said pump may under no circumstances be a Zefal and must be made by
Silca. Said Silca pump must be fitted with a Campagnolo head. It is
acceptable to gaffer-tape a mini-pump to your frame when no C02 cannisters are
available and your pockets are full of spare kit and energy gels. However, the
rider should expect to be stopped and questioned and may be required to empty
pockets to prove there is no room in them for the pump.
// Spare tubes, multi-tools and repair kits should
be stored in jersey pockets.
If absolutely necessary, in a converted bidon in a
cage on bike. Or, use one of
these.
// Humps are for camels: no hydration packs.
Hydration packs are never to be seen on a
road rider’s body. No argument will be entered into on this. For MTB, they are
cool.
// Shave your guns.
Legs are to be carefully shaved at all times. If,
for some reason, your legs are to be left hairy, make sure you can dish
out plenty of hurt to shaved riders, or be considered a hippie douche on your
way to a Critical Mass. Whether you use a straight razor or a Bowie knife, use Baxter
to keep them smooth.
// Mountain bike shoes and pedals have their place.
On a mountain bike.
// No visors on the road.
Road helmets can be worn on mountain bikes, but never
the other way around. If you want shade, see Rule
#22.
// Eyewear shall be cycling specific.
No Aviator
shades, blueblockers,
or clip-on
covers for eye glasses.
// The arms of the eyewear shall always be
placed over
the helmet straps.
No exceptions. This is for various reasons that may
or may not matter; it’s just the way it is.
// Don’t Play Leap Frog.
Train Properly: if you get passed by someone, it is
nothing personal, just accept that on the day/effort/ride they were stronger
than you. If you can’t deal, work harder. But don’t go playing leap frog to get
in front only to be taken over again (multiple times) because you can’t keep up
the pace. Especially don’t do this just because the person overtaking you is a
woman. Seriously. Get over it.
// Never ride without your eyewear.
You should not make a habit of riding without
eyewear, although approved extenuating circumstances include fog, overheating,
and lighting condition. When not worn over the eyes, they should be neatly
tucked into the vents
of your helmet. If they don’t fit, buy a new helmet. In the meantime
you can wear them backwards on the back of your head or carefully tuck them
into your jersey pocket, making sure not to scratch them on your tools (see
item 31).
// Tires are to be mounted with the label centered
over the valve stem.
Pro mechanics do it because it makes it easier to
find the valve. You do this because that’s the way pro mechanics do it. This
will save you precious seconds while your fat ass sits on the roadside fumbling
with your CO2 after a flat. It also looks better for photo opportunities. Note:
This obviously only applies to clinchers as tubulars don’t give you a choice.
// Quick-release levers are to be carefully
positioned.
Quick release angle on the front skewer shall be an
upward angle which tightens just aft of the fork and the rear quick release
shall tighten at an angle that bisects angle between the seat and chain stays.
It is acceptable, however, to have the rear quick release tighten upward, just
aft of the seat stay, when the construction of the frame or its dropouts will not
allow the preferred positioning. For Time Trial bikes only, quick releases
may be in the horizontal position facing towards the rear of the bike. This is
for maximum aero effect.
// A bike race shall never
be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
If it’s preceded with a swim and/or
followed by a run, it is not called a bike race, it is called duathlon or
a triathlon. Neither of which is a bike race. Also keep in mind that one
should only swim in order to prevent drowning, and should only run if being
chased. And even then, one should only run fast enough to prevent capture.
// Don’t be a jackass.
But if you absolutely must be a
jackass, be a funny jackass. Always remember, we’re all brothers
and sisters on the road.
// Position matters.
In order to find the V-Locus,
a rider’s handlebars on their road bike must always be lower than their saddle.
The only exception to this is if you’re revolutionizing
the sport, in which case you must also be prepared to break the World
Hour Record. The minimum allowable tolerance is 4cm; there is no maximum, but
people may berate
you if they feel you have them too low.
// Slam your stem.
A maximum stack height of 2cm is allowed below the
stem and a single 5mm spacer must always – always – be stacked above. A
“slammed down” stack height is preferable; meaning that the stem is positioned
directly on the top race of the headset.
// Keep your bars level.
Handlebars will be mounted parallel to the ground
or angled slightly upward. While they may never be pointed down at all,
they may be angled up slightly; allowed handlebar tilt is to be between 180 and
175 degrees with respect to the level road. The brake levers will preferably be
mounted such that the end of the brake lever is even with the bottom of the
bar. Modern bars, however, dictate that this may not always be possible,
so tolerances are permitted within reason. Brake hoods should not approach
anything near 45 degrees, as some riders with poor taste have been insisting on
doing.
// Drink Tripels, don’t ride triples.
Cycling and beer are so intertwined we may never
understand the full relationship. Beer is a recovery drink, an elixir for
post-ride trash talking and a just plain excellent thing to pour down the neck.
We train to drink so don’t fool around. Drink quality beer from real breweries.
If it is brewed with rice instead of malted barley or requires a lime, you are
off the path. Know your bittering units like you know your gear length. Life is
short, don’t waste it on piss beer.
// Saddles must be level and pushed back.
The seating area of a saddle is to be visually
level, with the base measurement made using a spirit level. Based on subtleties
of saddle design and requirements of comfort, the saddle may then be pitched
slightly forward or backward to reach a position that offers stability, power,
and comfort. If the tilt of the saddle exceeds two degrees, you need to go get
one of those saddles with springs and a thick gel pad because you are obviously
a big pussy. The midpoint of the saddle as measured from tip to tail shall fall
well behind and may not be positioned forward of the line made by extending the
seat tube through the top of the saddle. (Also see Rule
#44 and Rule
#48.)
// Keep the rubber side down.
It is completely unacceptable to intentionally turn
one’s steed upside down for any reason under any circumstances. Besides the
risk of scratching the saddle, levers and stem, it is unprofessional and a
disgrace to your loyal steed. The risk of the bike falling over is increased,
wheel removal/replacement is made more difficult and your bidons will leak. The
only reason a bicycle should ever be in an upside down position is during
mid-rotation while crashing. This Rule also applies to upside down saddle-mount
roof bars.
// Facial hair is to be carefully regulated.
No full beards, no moustaches. Goatees are
permitted only if your name starts with “Marco” and ends with “Pantani”, or if
your head is intentionally or unintentionally bald. One may never shave on the
morning of an important race, as it saps your virility, and you need that to
kick ass.
// Livestrong wristbands are cockrings for your
arms.
While we hate cancer, isn’t it better to just
donate some money and not have to advertise the fact for the next five years?
You may as well get “tryhard wanker” tattooed on your forehead. Or you may well
be a
bogan.
// Drink in Moderation.
Bidons are to be small in size. 500ml maximum, no
extra large vessels are to be seen on one’s machine. Two cages can be mounted,
but only one bidon on rides under two hours is to be employed. Said solo bidon
must be placed in the downtube cage only. You may only ride with a bidon
in the rear cage if you have a front bidon, or you just handed your front bidon
to a fan at the roadside and you are too busy crushing everyone to move it
forward until you take your next drink. Bidons should match each other and
preferably your bike and/or kit. The obvious exception is the classic Coca-Cola
bidon which by default matches any bike and/or kit due to its heritage.
Coca-Cola should only be consumed flat and near the end of a long ride or
all-day solo breakaway on the roads of France.
// Keep your kit clean and new.
As a courtesy to those around you, your kit should
always be freshly laundered, and, under no circumstances should the crackal
region of your shorts be worn
out or see-through.
// No aerobars on road bikes.
Aerobars or other clip-on attachments are under no
circumstances to be employed on your road bike. The only exception to this is
if you are competing in a mountain timetrail.
// Earn your turns.
If you are riding down a mountain, you must
first have ridden up the mountain. It is forbidden to employ powered
transportation simply for the cheap thrill of descending. The only exception to
this is if you are doing intervals on Alpe d’Huez or the Plan de Corones and
you park your car up top before doing 20 repeats of the climb.
// Espresso or macchiato only.
When wearing cycling kit and enjoying a pre or post
ride coffee, it is only appropriate to drink espresso or macchiato. If the word
soy/skim latte is heard to be used by a member wearing cycling apparel, then
that person must be ceremonially beaten with Co2 canisters or mini pumps by
others within the community.
// No stickers.
Nobody gives a shit what causes you support, what
war you’re against, what gear you buy, or what year you rode RAGBRAI.
See Rule
#5 and ride your bike. Decals, on the other hand, are not only permissible,
but extremely Pro.
// Support your local bike shop.
Never buy bikes, parts or accessories online. Going
into your local shop, asking myriad inane questions, tying up the staff’s time,
then going online to buy is akin to sleeping with your best friend’s wife, then
having a beer with him after. Online is evil and will be the death of the bike
shop. If you do purchase parts online, be prepared to mount and maintain them
yourself. If you enter a shop with parts you have bought online and expect them
to fit them, be prepared to be told to see your online seller for fitting and
warranty help.
// Hold your line.
Ride predictably, and don’t make sudden movements.
And, under no circumstances, are you to deviate
from your line.
// Ditch the washer-nut and valve-stem cap.
You are not, under any circumstances, to employ the
use of the washer-nut and valve-stem cap that come with your inner-tubes or
tubulars. They are only supplied to meet shipping regulations. They are useless
when it comes to tubes and tires.
// Like your guns, saddles should be smooth and
hard.
Under no circumstances may your saddle have more
than 3mm of padding. Special allowances will be made for stage racing when
physical pain caused by subcutaneous cysts and the like (“saddle sores”) are
present. Under those conditions, up to 5mm of padding will be allowed – it
should be noted that this exception is only temporary until the condition has
passed or been excised. A hardman would not change their saddle at all but
instead cut a hole in it to relieve pressure on the delicate area. It is noted
that if Rule
#48 and/or Rule
#5 is observed then any “padding” is superfluous.
// You shall not ride with earphones.
Cycling is about getting outside and into the
elements and you don’t need to be listening to Queen or Slayer in order to
experience that. Immerse yourself in the rhythm and pain, not in whatever 80′s
hair band you call “music”. See Rule
#5 and ride your bike.
// Point in the direction you’re turning.
Signal a left turn by pointing your left arm to the
left. To signal a right turn, simply point with your right arm to the right.
This one is, presumably, mostly for Americans: that right-turn signal that
Americans are taught to make with your left arm elbow-out and your forearm pointing
upwards was developed for motor-vehicles prior to the invention of the electric
turn signal since it was rather difficult to reach from the driver-side all the
way out the passenger-side window to signal a right turn. On a bicycle,
however, we don’t have this limitation and it is actually quite easy to point
your right arm in the direction you are turning. The American right-turn signal
just makes you look like you’re waving “hello” to traffic.
// Cornering confidence increases with time and
experience.
This pattern continues until it falls sharply and
suddenly.
// Maintain and respect your machine.
Bicycles must adhere to the Principle
of Silence and as such must be meticulously maintained. It must
be cherished, and when leaning it against a wall, must be leaned carefully
such that only the bars, saddle, or tires come in contact with the wall or
post. This is true even when dismounting prior to collapsing
after the World Championship Time Trial. No squeaks, creaks, or chain
noise allowed. Only the soothing hum of your tires upon the tarmac and the
rhythm of your breathing may be audible when riding. When riding the Pave, the
sound of chain slap is acceptable. The Principle of Silence can be
extended to say that if you are suffering such that your breathing begins to
adversely effect the enjoyment of the other riders in the bunch, you are to
summarily sit up and allow yourself to be dropped.
// No mirrors.
Mirrors are allowed on your (aptly named) Surly
Big Dummy or your Surly
Long Haul Trucker. Not on your road steed. Not on your Mountain bike. Not on
your helmet. If someone familiar with The Rules has sold you such an
abomination, return the mirror and demand a refund, plus interest and damages.
// Do your time in the wind.
Nobody likes a wheel sucker. You might think you’re
playing a smart tactical game by letting everyone else do the work while you
sit on, but races (even Town Sign Sprints) are won through cooperation and
spending time on the rivet, flogging yourself and taking risks. Riding wheels
and jumping past at the end is one thing and one thing only: poor
sportsmanship.
// Rides are to be measured by quality, not
quantity.
Rides are to be measured by the quality of their
distance and never by distance alone. For climbing rides, distances should be
referred to by the amount of vertical covered; flat and rolling rides
should be referred to by their distance and average speed. For example,
declaring “We rode 4km” would assert that 4000m were climbed during the ride,
with the distance being irrelevant. Conversely, a flat ride of 150km at 23kmh
is not something that should be discussed in an open forum and Rule
#5 must be reviewed at once
// Cycling shoes and bicycles are made for riding.
Any walking conducted while wearing cycling shoes
must be strictly limited. When taking a slash or filling bidons during a 200km
ride (at 38kmh, see Rule
#68) one is to carefully stow one’s bicycle at the nearest point navigable
by bike and walk the remaining distance. It is strictly prohibited that under
any circumstances a cyclist should walk up a steep incline, with the obvious
exception being when said incline is blocked by riders who crashed because you
are on the Koppenberg. For clarification, see Rule
#5.
// The purpose of competing is to win.
End of. Any reference to not achieving this should
be referred immediately to Rule
#5.
// Train Properly.
Know how to train properly
and stick to your training plan. Ignore other cyclists with whom you are not
intentionally riding. The time for being competitive is not during your
training rides, but during competition.
// Legs speak louder than words.
Unless you routinely demonstrate your riding
superiority and the smoothness of your Stroke,
refrain from discussing your power meter, heartrate, or any other riding data.
Also see Rule
#74.
// Gear and brake cables should be cut to optimum
length.
Cables should create a perfect
arc around the headtube and, whenever possible, cross under the downtube.
Right shifter cable should go to the left cable stop and vice versa.
// V
Meters or small computers only.
Forego the data and ride on feel; little compares
to the pleasure of riding as hard as your mind will allow. Learn to read your
body, meditate on Rule
#5, and learn to push yourself to your limit. Power meters, heart rate
monitors and GPS are bulky, ugly and superflous. Any cycle computer, if deemed
necessary, should be simple, small, mounted on the stem.
// Race numbers are for races.
Remove it from your frame before the next training
ride because no matter how cool you think it looks, it does not look cool.
Unless you are in a race. In which case it looks cool.
// Helmets are to be hung from your stem.
When not worn, helmets are to be clipped to the
stem and draped over your handlebars thusly.
// Respect the earth; don’t litter.
Cycling is not an excuse to litter. Do not throw
your empty gel packets, energy bar wrappers or punctured tubes on the road or
in the bush. Stuff em in your jersey pockets, and repair that tube when you get
home.
// Remove unnecessary gear.
When racing in a criterium of 60 minutes or less
the second (unused) water bottle cage must be removed in order to preserve the
aesthetic of the racing machine.
// Fight for your town lines.
Town lines must be contested or at least faked if
you’re not in to it or too shagged to do anything but pedal the bike.
// Always be Casually
Deliberate.
Waiting for others pre-ride or at the start
line pre-race, you must be tranquilo, resting on your top tube thusly.
This may be extended to any time one is aboard the bike, but not riding it,
such as at stop lights.
// Don’t talk it up.
Crashes may only be discussed and recounted when
the rider or spectator has ended up requiring hospitalization. Otherwise revert
to Rule
#5.
// Close the gap.
Whilst riding in cold and/or Rule
#9 conditions replete with arm warmers, under no circumstances is there to
be any exposed skin between the hems of your kit and the hems of your arm
warmers. If this occurs, you either need to wear a kit that fits you properly
or increase the size of your guns. Arm warmers may, however, be shoved to the
wrists in Five
and Dime scenarios, particularly those involving Rule
#9 conditions. The No-Gap Principle also applies to knee and leg
warmers with the variation that these are under no circumstances to be
scrunched down around the ankles; Merckx have mercy on whomever is caught in
such a sad, sorry state. It is important to note that while one can wear arm
warmers without wearing knee or leg warmers, one cannot wear knee or leg
warmers without wearing arm warmers (or a long sleeve jersey). It is completely
inappropriate to have uncovered arms, while covering the knees, with the
exception of brief periods of time when the arm warmers may be shoved
to the wrists while going uphill in a Five
and Dime situation. If the weather changes and one must remove a layer, the
knee/leg coverings must go before the arm coverings. If that means that said
rider must take off his knee or leg warmers while racing, then this is a skill
he must be accomplished in. The single exception would be before an event in
which someone plans on wearing neither arm or leg warmers while racing, but
would like to keep the legs warm before the event starts; though wearing a long
sleeve jersey over the racing kit at this time is also advised. One must not
forget to remove said leg warmers.
// Be self-sufficient.
Unless you are followed by a team car, you will
repair your own punctures. You will do so expediently, employing your own
skills, using your own equipment, and without complaining that your expensive
tyres are too tight for your puny thumbs to fit over your expensive rim. The
fate of a rider who has failed to equip himself pursuant to Rule
#31, or who knows not how to use said equipment, shall be determined at the
discretion of any accompanying or approaching rider in accordance with Rule
#84.
// Follow the Code.
Consistently with The Code Of The Domestique, the
announcement of a flat tyre in a training ride entitles – but does not oblige –
all riders then present in the bunch to cease riding without fear of being
labelled Pussies. All stopped riders are thereupon entitled – but not obliged –
to lend assistance, instruction and/or stringent criticism of the tyre mender’s
technique. The duration of a Rule
#84 stop is entirely discretionary, but is generally inversely proportional
to the duration of the remaining time available for post-ride espresso.
// Descend like a Pro.
All descents shall be undertaken at speeds commonly
regarded as “ludicrous” or “insane” by those less talented. In addition all
corners will be traversed in an outside-inside-outside trajectory, with the
outer leg extended and the inner leg canted appropriately (but not too far as
to replicate a motorcycle racer, for you are not one), to assist in balance and
creation of an appealing aesthetic. Brakes are generally not to be employed,
but if absolutely necessary, only just prior to the corner. Also see Rule
#64.
// Don’t half-wheel.
Never half-wheel your riding partners; it’s
terrible form – it is always the other guy who sets the pace. Unless, of
course, you are on the rivet, in which case it’s an excellent intimidation
technique.
// The Ride Starts on Time. No exceptions.
The upside of always leaving on time is
considerable. Others will be late exactly once. You signal that the sanctity of
this ride, like all rides, is not something with which you should muck. You
demonstrate, not with words but with actions, your commitment. As a bonus, you
make more time for post-ride espresso. “On Time”, of course, is taken to mean at
V past the hour or half hour.
// Don’t surge.
When rolling onto the front to take your turn in
the wind, see Rule
#67, do not suddenly lift the pace unless trying to establish a break. The
key to maintaining a high average speed is to work with your companions and
allow no gaps to form in the line. It is permissible to lift the pace gradually
and if this results in people being dropped then they have been ridden off your
wheel and are of no use to the bunch anyway. If you are behind someone who
jumps on the pedals when they hit the front do not reprimand the offender with
cries of ‘Don’t Surge’ unless the offender is a Frenchman named Serge.
// Pronounce it Correctly.
All races shall be referred to by the name given in
its country of origin, and care shall be taken to pronounce the name as well as
possible. For Belgian Races, it is preferable to choose the name given in its
region of origin, though it is at the speaker’s discretion to use either the
Flemish or Wallonian pronunciation. This principle shall also be extended
to apply to riders’ names, bicycle and component marquees, and
cycling accoutrements.
// Never Get Out of the Big Ring.
If it gets steeper, just push harder on the pedals.
When pressed on the matter, the Apostle Johan Museeuw simply replied, “Yes, why
would you slow down?” It is, of course, acceptable to momentarily shift into
the inner ring when scaling the 20%
ramps of the Kapelmuur.
// No Food On Training Rides Under Four Hours.
This one also comes from the Apostle, Johan
Museeuw, who said to @frank: “Yes, no food on rides under four hours. You need
to lose some weight.” Or, as Fignon put it, sometimes, when we train, we simply
have to go out to meet the Man with the Hammer. The exception is, of course,
hard rides over two hours and races. Also, if you’re planning on being out for
more than four hours, start eating before you get hungry. This also applies to
energy drink supplements.
See it's so simple to be a good biker.. Happy riding!
For more information please visit: http://www.velominati.com/
Elmar
